Adios, Mexico

The last week of my trip included two talks in Mexico City. One at the Tecnológico de Ciudad de Mexico, and the other at the Auntonomo de Ciudad de Mexico. The first was in English, and the second in Spanish, and both were fun. If for some reason you're curious about the second talk, it was streamed and can be seen at Michael's talk in Spanish. 

Things were certainly busy those last few days, but I did manage to see Ann & Tim again, and have a farewell dinner with Linda and Sandy at Los Telares, which I think is the best restaurant in town.

My trip home was radically changed due to a family crisis that necessitated my going to California from Mexico rather than straight back to Toronto as originally planned. This should have been easy, but, of course, wasn't. 

First, my trip to and from Toronto to Guadalajara was on points. This meant any changes had to be on "point seats," and not just any old seat around. This meant spending a night in Houston on the way home because there was no flight going out that night with a point seat on it. OK, no biggy.

The biggy came at the Guadalajara airport when it was noticed that my scheduled plane to San Francisco where I was top change for Sacramento, letf four minutes after my plane landed. Not going to happen. This meant I had to call United in Mexico. They explained that it would cost me US$600 for another ticket, and US$200 in penalties. I asked if I could deal with this in Houston, and they allowed as how that was up to me. I opted for Houston, so got on my plane with no idea of where or when I was leaving Houston. 

Fortunately, a desk agent helped me out and changed my ticket with no additional cost or penalties. I traveled from 9:30 am until 1:30 am, but I got there!

Now, back in Toronto in the the chill of March, but the warmth of my family so all is well. And it was a grand trip!  ¡Hasta luego! 

Bye, Doug! Hi, Ann & Tim!

Friday the 21st was Doug's last day. Once again we wanted to take it easy, especially since our plans to do that on Thursday failed so miserably. For brunch we went to Ritchie88, on Colón down from Zaragoza, and we had the best omelet I've been served outside of France. It was rich, light and delicious. And we did rest that afternoon.

But that night we went to the Red Piano and caught The Judy Show, a wonderful and riotous drag performance by Michael Holmes. As Judy, she decided that Doug was her drug buddy, Bea Arthur, and the whole thing was a laugh riot and well worth the cover. Here's Michael as Judy Garland, Pearl Bailey, and Bette Davis.

IIIItt's JUDY!!

Judy talking to Bea Arthur

Doug departed on Saturday,  to be followed by friends Ann Ireland and Tim Deverell. They'd been in a tiny town about an hour from Puerto Vallarta, and Ajijic seemed like a bustling metropolis to them.

It's nice having them here. Today (Wednesday) we did the tiangis, and got some ab fab fish tacos.

Before we met I followed the final parade of Carnaval, from seis esquinos [six corners] all the way to the corrida. I've already written about the riotous cross-dressing, flour tossing antics of these parades, so I won't go there again. But, I'll post a bunch of photos and clips, then link them from here.

Mexican recados and the dance marathon

Doug Arrives

Friend Doug arrived here from Boston at almost 10 pm on Monday night. His flight on Sunday had been cancelled, and his re-routing took three planes and, ultimately, 16 hours door to door. Fortunately, waking up in Ajijic seems to cure everything. We've had a lot of fun so far exploring Ajijic, taking the bus into Chapala, having some grand meals, and walking interminable distances.

Jewelery on the Chapala Malecon

The Bimbo T-shirt store

As a result, we decided that yesterday, Thursday, we'd take it easier and walk a bit less. Good plan.

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A Mexican Recado

The word "recado" in Mexican Spanish means errand, and in México errands are rarely straightforward. In fact, it's one of those things that separate the folks who really belong here from those who made a dreadful mistake and should be back in AZ.

Thursday about 10:30 we went across the road to Los Molletes for brunch, which was nice.
We then walked along the malecon beside the lake, up Colon, and stopped into Diane Pearl's at the corner of Constitución and Colón, a boutique which is just chock-a-block with beautiful crafts and jewelery. Doug had bought his wife, Dene, a Bimbo t-shirt. I gently suggested that while the t-shirt was fun, something else might be called for. Big mistake. First, Doug bought a lovely painting of three musicians, about 30"by 20" done by a local artist. Then a necklace, some wine glasses, margarita glasses, and who can remember what else. All this was wrapped into bubble wrap ... And then we had to decide how to get it back to Boston. Doug came with a carry-on, and did not want to check it on the way home.

[An aside here. I do not understand people who are going on holiday and who fret about checking a bag. Sure - go overnight for a business meeting, and I can relate. But why drive yourself crazy over what is typically a 15 minute wait - max. Beats me. I mean, you're on holiday - whats the flippin' rush???]

One of Diane's assistants mentioned that there is a Fedex store over by Los Toritos, the supermarket that's only a klick away. Off we went. Since this was the day we were going to give our legs a rest, we looked for a cab at the usually occupied sitio [cab stand] but none were to be had. Off we went by foot. Painting under my arm, goblets and such like under Doug's. We arrived at the store where the clerk worked the computer and then asked where our boxes were. This Fedex store does not sell boxes. Are you beginning to get the point about this being a Mexican errand?

Off again, this time by cab to the Mailboxes, Etc. store which does sell boxes. But the vidrio [glass] can only be shipped if it's in a wooden box. Oh, but they can ship the painting. The quite dour clerk plays with the computer for a while. Sure, señor, only US$250. Doug looks at me and says, "I'll check my bag." I confess to losing my Mexican cool and giving him a dirty look. Back to the plaza where I persuade Doug to buy a straw bag large enough to put his painting and glasses in.

Finally home at 3 pm which is the normal time for a day we are not taking it easy!

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The Dance of the Widows

On Thursday night we had made a reservation at La Bodega, a restaurant on the east side of Ajijic known for its entertainment and dance floor. Doug and I were attracted by the advertized live Doo Wop music, and thought it might be fun. We arrived at 7, and got a table on the lawn just about 3 meters from the dance floor, almost in a straight line with the two Doo Wop singers.  Sitting at the table next to us was a woman on her own. When her dinner was served and we realised she was really all by herself and not waiting for someone, we, gentlemen that we are, invited her to join us. Karen accepted and moved to our table.

Doug and Karen

  The music started, and with it the dancing. I quickly noticed one woman in a flippy skirt who seemed to know what she was doing. She was dancing with a man I took to be her husband (I was right), and the two of them could certainly cut a rug.

Kathy and hubby, doing it up right!

 Now when it comes to dancing, I'm not in the one per cent, but I am in the 10%. I enjoy it, and the music being played, mostly from the late 50's is what I love the most. After a couple of songs, I noticed several women, including the one I had noticed, dancing in a group the way women sometimes do. I walked over, looked at them, smiled, and said, I need a partner. Say no more. Ms. Flippy Skirt, whose name is Kathy [or Cathy?] took my hand and we were off and dancing.

After that, I was fair game. Any time I sat down one of those grand gals would look at me, crook a finger, and say, Michael...! I did inquire if there was a defibrillator on the premises but the singers had no pity. I was truly impressed by the spirit of these gals, and how much fun they were having. I really don't think you see this in many other retirement areas, certainly not Florida or Arizona or Victoria. I guess the thing about Ajijic is you at least have to have enough sense of adventure to come on down to México, and if you do, you'll meet others like you and it all happens.

Thanks, gals, I had a great night!

Everyone loves a parade

This was a busy and fun weekend in Ajijic. Friday, Saturday and Sunday was the 36th National Mexican Chili Cook Off, which included competitions for, duh, chili, but also margaritas and salsa. Here's the lineup of stoves for the chili tasting - everyone tastes and then votes.

You go from one stove to the other, receive a wee cup of chili and use the even wee-r little spoon you get when you pay your fee. It's all for charity and good fun. Also, there were tons of artisans in stalls selling everything from junk jewelery to hand cast silver dining sets.

This pic doesn't do justice the number and range, but waddya gonna do.

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Having eaten both 10 tastes of chili as well as some ribs, I just got a bunch of tamales from the señoritas, had two and saved the rest.

They're great for breakfast.

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Sunday I was sitting around working when I heard the unmistakable sounds of a parade. Since lent starts a week from this Wednesday this weekend was a warmup. The parade is very interactive: cross-dressed dancers carrying bags of confetti and flour chase the kids who are running in front of them. When they catch one, they wet their faces with a damp cloth and wipe flour on them.

Of course, there's a band, hear 10 seconds worth here, and hard working and enthusiastic bandadores.

And what Mexican parade would complete without caballeros?

and caballeritas?

It was really great fun.  BTW, if you are interested in the traditions surrounding the parades like this one, look here: Judy's Blog - Ajijic Parades
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The evening ended with my having the pleasure of meeting Linda and Sandy's daughter, partner, and their two great kids, Nuri and Hesh.

We all went to Memo's for an authentic Mexican experience, and I think it did the trick.

Guadalajara and back

I have now reached the two thirds point in my trip. As I write this, it is Friday the 14th, Día de Amor [Valentine's Day], and I leave México on Friday 28 February. This week, from Monday until today I was in Guadalajara working. When I come to México I always try to give some conferencías [talks] on my philosophical work. My theories, in the area of Argumentation Theory, are greatly appreciated here and seem to speak to the Latin soul. (Too bad they don't speak so strongly to the Canadian or American soul!) So Monday, I took my wheelie carry on across the seemingly mountainous cobblestones of Ajijic to the plaza. Had a cafe con leche at the Black and White, and then caught the Chapala Plus Directo to Guadalajara.

All the buses in México that go any distance are extremely comfortable with seats that lean back, foot rests, cup holders and all the mod cons. The trip was scheduled for one hour so, of  course, was an hour and one half. I was met by dear friend Fernando, taken to my hotel, and then la comida. The hotel was directly across from the Plaza des Armas, which is (allegedly) the exact centre of Guadalajara. The room is on the small side, spartan in a kind of Scandinavian way, and truly delightful. Best of all was the location - dead centre - and the view, which was outstanding.

The view from my balcony

Here's a 15 second look at the room and the view: My room and view 

La comida was at a restaurant which served a Guadalajara specialty not available anywhere else. Carne, in this case pork, is cooked with frijoles [beans] in its own juices.

Carne en su Jugo

As really, really exciting dishes go, I wouldn't rank it at the top. But more important was the company of my many friends from the Universidad de Guadalajara [UdG ] whom I had not seen for several years.

Following la comida we had a faculty session discussing their future plans for Argumentation Theory, and then I was ferried back to my elegantly simple hotel room,  and it's beautiful view.

 The next day was work. I was offering a three session course to grad students in the UdG Department of Philosophy - in Spanish, which makes it more effort by a factor of, say 10. Nonetheless, it was going quite well. We took the usual middle of three hours break, and I wandered alone clearing my mind and organizing my thoughts. When I returned and said, Bueno, empeazamos, [OK, let's begin] one of the students said, Maestro, if you want to work in English, we all understand it. Now you tell me. So those remaining classes were primarily n English spiked with Spanish when the spirit moved me.

That afternoon I had la comida at one of my usual Guadalajara haunts right on the plaza, La Mexicana. I had been curious about tortas ahogadas, which translates as drowned sandwiches, so I ordered one. A torta ahogadas is made from a bun, a bolillo, which is the same one used for molletes [see this blog entry: look for molletes]. Only in this recipe they are stuffed with your choice of filling - I chose carnitas - and then drowned in sauce, usually very spicy, but I begged forbearance.

Eaten with a knife and fork, it was delicious. El Mexicana is a huge place mostly attended by locals. I've never been there when the entertainment is on, but I imagine it's great fun. (Sorry for the bad pic, but the lighting was difficult.

Wednesday was another three hour class, and Thursday was my large public lecture. That, I did in Spanish.

Wednesday night I went with friend Jaime and his friend Linda,

to a new and very chi-chi restaurant in Chapultepec called Chochon Gastrobar. The food was excellent and beautifully served. Here are some pictures taken in bad light. In order, tuna, pulpo [octopus] and lamb.

My fresh Tuna

Linda's Pulpo

Jaime's lamb

We had a lovely time, and a new friend was made. I hope.

I was having a problem in Guadalajara. I had too much time alone, and could only work so many hours on other things. I have walked the Guadalajara plazas many times, and have visited the Mercado Libertad often.

It's huge and fun but... Been there done that.

I mentioned something to Fernando in passing, who also mentioned it to his wife Judith also in passing. Judith [pronounced Hu-dith] like virtually every woman I know, said, Well did you invite him for comida tomorrow? Are you taking him somewhere? Which is no small part of the reason why men need women so much. In a flash I was invite to their lovely house.

Thursday comida  at their house and it was wonderful. [I don't say lunch because la comida is later and much larger than what we think of as lunch. I'll have a separate entry on that.]

We ate a Guadalajara specialty called tacos al vapor. These are

tacos that are first cooked, then dried and then steamed, and they were wonderful.

After my final class I was taken to a restaurant called Otate, which lays claim to the best tacos ever. I ordered, and Fernando looked at the waiter and said, no, no, no, and re-did my order. I went with him, and they were grand. Two were tacos pastor [country style] two machaco [pork] and one chicharon [fried pig skin] and they were all grand.

Best of all was the company.

Molcajete on the malecon, and then some

So, Andrew was picked up by Arturo's cab at 4:30 am, got his flights, and is safely home. Before he left we had what was my first disappointing meal in Ajijic. It was at La Nueva Posada, a lovely place to stay and a great place for a drink. It's housed in an ancient building but with lovely rooms, and a new annex overlooking the lake, but with very boring food. Seriously, if you go to Ajijic you must visit it, just don't eat there. Oh, you can have a snack.

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Sunday 9 February

All this was made up for on Sunday. First we had to exchange some of the napkins and indivuales [place mats] we had got for Diane. That actually took most of the morning since, as it turns out, the shop didn't open till 11:30. Fortunately, I had explained to the señora that when I sent my wife the photos I might have to come back and exchange the patterned individuales for plain ones. She said, "Sí, siempre la patronessa." [Always the boss.]

One thing I had promised Andy was a trip to the Chapala malecon and a comida [late lunch] of molcajete.   This is a molcajete, and it is always used for making guacamole. However, it is also used as a serving and cooking dish for certain specialties.

One such specialty is a dish called, oddly enough, molcajete. Various carnes and mariscos [meats and seafood] are put in the bowl with onions, mushrooms, slices of green and red pepper, and then topped with cheese.The whole thing is put in an oven, and served when it is so hot the cheese is bubbling. It comes out looking like this:

And you eat it by putting some on a taco along with fresh salsa, guacamole and salsa roja, like this:

Boy, did that do us in! It's really enough for four and, no, we could not finish it.

That night we had planned to go to Bruno's for steak, but we quickly realised there was no way that was going to happen. We called Sandy who was coming to Bruno's with us and changed our plans. Instead, we went to Memo's [may-moes] for Zoplole Roja.

And had a grand time.

Now I am in Guadalajara, and that's going to be a different post.

Andrew arrives - and catch up

Well, it's been a while since I've blogged, and the emails and complaints about that are piling up. So her we go.

Actually, until dear friend Andrew arrived, it's been quiet. Most noteworthy event was the pozole I had at Memo's - pozole roja, and it was fabulous. (Thought I had a pic but don't. Next time.) On Wednesday I went back to the tianguis and had some wicked good tacos at a place on the street named Rafa's.

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Andrew arrived on Thursday after a crazy trip. His flight out of Toronto was delayed for an hour and a half, so he didn't get to his hotel until 2:30 am. Arrives there by cab - which got lost - to find out his room had been given away even though he'd called and said he'd be late. The night manager told him he could have a room for him in an hour which made us suspect that he had a friend in there. 4 a.m., and he finally lay his head down. Next day he's off to catch his Vivaaerobus flight to Guadalajara, but when he arrives finds out his reservation was cancelled. No reason given, but they did manage to get him on the flight.

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Thursday night we went out with my friends Steve and Steve at Ajijic Tango, 1st on Tripadvisor as Ajijic's number one restaurant. Food was great, but don't think the value warrants the #1 spot.

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Friday we hiked to Superlake, had tacos at Tony's,

and spent a god deal of time in the huge liquor store so Andy could study the tequilas there. Those of use who know him are aware he's quite the expert on the subject. He had a ball, and brought home a bunch to play with.

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Last night we had a wonderful dinner at Los Telares. Andrew began with a shrimp appetizer,

followed by their wonderful chicken mole. I had their special roasted garlic with mushrooms.

Just amazing! I followed that by Camarones Vampiros, shrimp wrpped in bacon and a bed of cheese.

To die for. All the while we had the pleasure of listening to Danny Cordero play the guitar and sing.

After his set he joined us for a beer and we learned he's a really interesting guy.

Our last stop was the pulqueria La Banka where Andrew had a pulque. This was our second time there, and we again chatted with Roberto about the intricacies of pulque.

Today we went shopping for Diane's napkins and place mats which Andy is carrying home for me. More happening today and tonight, but that's later.