Guadalajara and back

I have now reached the two thirds point in my trip. As I write this, it is Friday the 14th, Día de Amor [Valentine's Day], and I leave México on Friday 28 February. This week, from Monday until today I was in Guadalajara working. When I come to México I always try to give some conferencías [talks] on my philosophical work. My theories, in the area of Argumentation Theory, are greatly appreciated here and seem to speak to the Latin soul. (Too bad they don't speak so strongly to the Canadian or American soul!) So Monday, I took my wheelie carry on across the seemingly mountainous cobblestones of Ajijic to the plaza. Had a cafe con leche at the Black and White, and then caught the Chapala Plus Directo to Guadalajara.

All the buses in México that go any distance are extremely comfortable with seats that lean back, foot rests, cup holders and all the mod cons. The trip was scheduled for one hour so, of  course, was an hour and one half. I was met by dear friend Fernando, taken to my hotel, and then la comida. The hotel was directly across from the Plaza des Armas, which is (allegedly) the exact centre of Guadalajara. The room is on the small side, spartan in a kind of Scandinavian way, and truly delightful. Best of all was the location - dead centre - and the view, which was outstanding.

The view from my balcony

Here's a 15 second look at the room and the view: My room and view 

La comida was at a restaurant which served a Guadalajara specialty not available anywhere else. Carne, in this case pork, is cooked with frijoles [beans] in its own juices.

Carne en su Jugo

As really, really exciting dishes go, I wouldn't rank it at the top. But more important was the company of my many friends from the Universidad de Guadalajara [UdG ] whom I had not seen for several years.

Following la comida we had a faculty session discussing their future plans for Argumentation Theory, and then I was ferried back to my elegantly simple hotel room,  and it's beautiful view.

 The next day was work. I was offering a three session course to grad students in the UdG Department of Philosophy - in Spanish, which makes it more effort by a factor of, say 10. Nonetheless, it was going quite well. We took the usual middle of three hours break, and I wandered alone clearing my mind and organizing my thoughts. When I returned and said, Bueno, empeazamos, [OK, let's begin] one of the students said, Maestro, if you want to work in English, we all understand it. Now you tell me. So those remaining classes were primarily n English spiked with Spanish when the spirit moved me.

That afternoon I had la comida at one of my usual Guadalajara haunts right on the plaza, La Mexicana. I had been curious about tortas ahogadas, which translates as drowned sandwiches, so I ordered one. A torta ahogadas is made from a bun, a bolillo, which is the same one used for molletes [see this blog entry: look for molletes]. Only in this recipe they are stuffed with your choice of filling - I chose carnitas - and then drowned in sauce, usually very spicy, but I begged forbearance.

Eaten with a knife and fork, it was delicious. El Mexicana is a huge place mostly attended by locals. I've never been there when the entertainment is on, but I imagine it's great fun. (Sorry for the bad pic, but the lighting was difficult.

Wednesday was another three hour class, and Thursday was my large public lecture. That, I did in Spanish.

Wednesday night I went with friend Jaime and his friend Linda,

to a new and very chi-chi restaurant in Chapultepec called Chochon Gastrobar. The food was excellent and beautifully served. Here are some pictures taken in bad light. In order, tuna, pulpo [octopus] and lamb.

My fresh Tuna

Linda's Pulpo

Jaime's lamb

We had a lovely time, and a new friend was made. I hope.

I was having a problem in Guadalajara. I had too much time alone, and could only work so many hours on other things. I have walked the Guadalajara plazas many times, and have visited the Mercado Libertad often.

It's huge and fun but... Been there done that.

I mentioned something to Fernando in passing, who also mentioned it to his wife Judith also in passing. Judith [pronounced Hu-dith] like virtually every woman I know, said, Well did you invite him for comida tomorrow? Are you taking him somewhere? Which is no small part of the reason why men need women so much. In a flash I was invite to their lovely house.

Thursday comida  at their house and it was wonderful. [I don't say lunch because la comida is later and much larger than what we think of as lunch. I'll have a separate entry on that.]

We ate a Guadalajara specialty called tacos al vapor. These are

tacos that are first cooked, then dried and then steamed, and they were wonderful.

After my final class I was taken to a restaurant called Otate, which lays claim to the best tacos ever. I ordered, and Fernando looked at the waiter and said, no, no, no, and re-did my order. I went with him, and they were grand. Two were tacos pastor [country style] two machaco [pork] and one chicharon [fried pig skin] and they were all grand.

Best of all was the company.